Getting there

Quick flight synopsis:

1. Raleigh to JFK, New York, 1h35m
2. New York to Hong Kong, 16h20m
3. Hong Kong to Dhaka, Bangladesh, 4h20m
4. Dhaka to Kathmandu, Nepal, 1h40m

Start at 6:00 AM on October 31. Arrive 30 hours later at 10:20PM on November 1. Total time in the air: about 24 hours. We spend a few days in Kathmandu before flying to Lukla, where the actual trek begins.

This flight is not for the weak of heart. No, let me correct that. The flight is cake. The landing and the takeoff at Lukla is what requires either a strong heart... or some heavy sedation.

The Tensing-Hillary Airport in Lukla is up on a mountain side. Arrivals land—smartly—on the 12% uphill grade which helps stop the planes before they encounter the much steeper mountain side that is guaranteed to really stop them.  Takeoff goes in the other direction—the downhill run helps the planes accelerate to rotation speed before reaching a 2,000 foot drop-off immediately at the end of the 460 meter short airstrip.

Don't fret for me or my fellow trekkers, though! The Lukla airport has been called the safest  airport in the world, except for every other airports in the world.

Once we get get to safe ground in Lukla, the rest of the trek begins. The actual trekking to Everest Base Camp and back takes about two weeks, I think to allow time to build up our nerves (or to forget our anxiety) before we get back on the exceedingly well-maintained twin prop plane for the breathtaking 3D HD Lukla departure.

I think I'll pack lightly.

The Lightweight

Welcome back, all my loyal followers. I must say, I have a very elite set of readers; you are literally one in 330,000,000. So don't spread this blog around; it will diminish your special status. You think folks feel special being just one in the 1,300,000 strong crowd of the Colbert Nation?

Today, I'm going to share what I'm doing to prepare for the physical challenges of letting a yak carry my duffle up to Everest Base Camp.

This is not me.

As I've already bragged, I have a decent  level of cardiovascular fitness... just enough to make me think I could do this trek without any artificial aids like a stretcher. But my current fitness is not really enough to take on an Wild and Extreme Endurance Event of hiking up to 18,500 feet (metric equivalent: 63.70 jillometres) in  minus 10 degrees Farenheit (metric equivalent: freeze your nads off cold). For that, some folks simulate high elevation low oxygen by wearing a training mask that basically forces you to breath through a straw. Um, I'm not gonna do that even if I can rock a maple leaf. I knew I needed to round out my fitness, if for no other reason than to give you, my many fellow advernturers, the hilarious mental image of a skinny-armed pale guy trying to do free weights.

Thus, I made an appointment with a personal trainer at the Recreation and Fitness Center at work. Cheryl W. in the SAS personal trainer pool was lucky enough to pull my name. I met with Cheryl for an hour, where we went over my fitness goals - not just EBC, but doing two or three hilly century rides this year, culminating with a double century again at Bike MS in September. At our second meeting, Cheryl showed me some core-building, balance, and general strengthening exercises to add to my current monotonous routine. And yes, these new exercises do involve free weights!

• Start with the big red exercise ball, sort of what you'd use to play fetch with Clifford The Big Red Dog. Sit on the ball, then roll forward until, facing up, your shoulders and neck are on the ball. Make a flat platform with your body, with knees bent 90 degrees and feet on the floot. Using dumbells, press 20 times slowly. Use a weight that is enough that you can just barely finish 20 reps. I won't say what my weight is; use your imagination for best humorous effect. I look at the guy on the bench next to me with 70 lb weights in each beefy arm and I tell myself, "yah, but can he do that on an exercise ball?"
• Next, lay face down with the ball under your hips/abdomen. Lift dumbells, one arm at a time, bringing them to your pits, then slowly return them to the floor. Do 20 reps with each arm. (Again, insert ridiculously light weight here.)
• Last ball exercise: return to the platform position. Starting with weights extended straight up, slowly lower the weights over your face and down on either side of your head, then return, straightening the arms and keeping elbows close together. This is a tricept press. Like the others, doing this while balancing on the ball helps build your core, especially if you position your feet closer together.
• Four, using an exercise step or other platform, and holding weights in each wimpy arm, step up with one foot and bring the opposite knee up to waist height hold briefly (or boxerly, if you lean that way), then return it to the floor. Repeat 20 times on the right leg, then 20 on left.
• E, hold weights in each arm, held low at your sides. With straight arms, raise the weights out to the sides slowly to shoulder height, hold briefly, then slowly lower. Repeat 17 times. (No, I'm kidding, it's 20). Oh, and while you're doing this, stand only on one foot for 10 reps, the other foot for the last 10.
• F is similar, but doing curls while balancing on one foot; 20 curls each arm. As before, choose a weight such that you can barely finish the 20 reps. For some inscrutable reason, this one is called the One Leg Arm Curl.
• Exercise 7 (Bridge): lay on your back on a mat on the floor, with knees bent, feet flat. Then lift abdomen up, straightening your back (or abdomen, I'm adaptable), while pressing arms firmly into the floor (which does not bend no matter how hard you press). Repeat the magic number of times.
• Final exercise is the Plank. I hold this and count 20 slow breaths, which takes about 80 seconds, then repeat. Try to ignore the shaking.

Stairmaster Step Mill

I've been doing these for a couple weeks now, and I'm actually pretty happy with the workout. My balance is noticeably improved; I hardly ever fall over anymore.

In addition to these core-building exercises, I'm adding intervals to my cardio workouts. So instead of just spinning for an hour at a constant rate while I read a book (latest: A Memory of Light, a bicep builder disguised as an 800+ page hardback), I'm doing other exercises. On Wednesday, I did 30 minutes on the "real" stair machine, basically a self-contained mini escalator in the gym, minus the elf. My 7 intervals consisted of 2 minutes at 99 steps per minute and 2 minutes "rest" at 64 steps per minute.  This simulates some pretty serious climbing (150+ flights of 15 steps each).

Although I really went nowhere, I think I'm getting somewhere, getting fit, finding what fits, and having fun while doing it. And that's the point, right? "Dave's journey from here to there." I hope you'll continue the journey with me.

The work out

Sometimes, things just work out.

We planned a twelve mile training hike at Raven Rock State Park for 10:00 AM on Saturday, February 16. The weather was predicted to be in the 40's with a chance of that wintery stuff later in the afternoon. As I drove to Tomas' house to ride together, it was already raining, though lightly. It then rained all the way through Lillington. It rained while we waited for Amy and David and Catherine to arrive. It rained while we prepped our backpacks. And it rained as we started our trek on the Campbell Creek Loop Trail.

But after a few minutes, the rain gradually changed over to snow. By the time we reached Lanier Falls, it was a beautiful snow. With really huge flakes. It was hard to not just stare up between the pines and watch it fall.

We continued our trek, stopped for lunch, but the snow did not stop for lunch. We continued our trek, and the snow continued. We hiked out the Raven Rock Loop trail to the top of the bluff, with an overlook over the Cape Fear River, then out to Raven Rock. And the snow continued.

Then the snow turned back to rain and our spirits dampened along with our hats. We continued out the Little Creek Loop trail. After turning the corner, the rain turned back into snow, although the flakes were no longer mutant-sized.

We finished our hike and marveled at the beauty. We ended up getting a training hike that simulated the conditions we might find on the Everest Base Camp trek. I found out I need better (waterprooof) protection. Plusses all around.

Sometimes, things just work out.

Does my boss approve?

It's official:

Your request(s) have been approved/disapproved:

Absence Type : Vacation
Start Date : October 31, 2013
Duration : 15 day(s)
Status : APPROVED

My vacation request for the duration of the trek was approved today!

The real question is: would I have quit if it wasn't approved :-?

The meaning of life

Indeed, what is the meaning of life? In my first half century of this trek from here to there (I write casually, as if I'm saying say "the first of my three or four..."), I've asked this questions many times, and received myriad responses. Those who know me really well won't be surprised to hear me evoke Douglas Adam's Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy, which I first discovered on the bookshelf of the New Lenox, Illinois Public Library somewhere around eighth grade. (I almost didn't read it because it looked too silly. But pick it up—and read it—I did; I have always been—and remain—entirely and completely anything but far from unserious.)

Ask Siri "What is the meaning of life?"
and get back a surprising answer. 

So when I recently encountered Siri's response to this question (thanks to the interwebs, because I don't own an iPhone), I thought it both fitting and timely, at least in relation to this impending trek through Nepal. Here, Siri is conveniently giving us advice I'm already taking: "get some walking in." Indeed, Siri, Siriously?

But I'm not embarking on just any walking. I'm taking that walk idea, and turning it up, not just to 10, but all the way up to 11*.

But why stop there? No, I don't mean "turn it up to 12"; that would be utterly absurd. I mean the other points. Try and be nice to people. Let's turn that up to 11, too. Read a good book? Sure, turn that up to 11, and quality education for all, while we're at it. And that trying to live together in harmony? With people of all creeds and nations? Yes, let's turn that up to 11 as well.

It's easy to trivialize the writ and wit of Siri or even Douglas Adams (though the latter would get me more riled up; I mean the man was a genius...) If I were going for trivial, I'd have started with Monty Python.

Although I'm putting a light veneer on this topic, I'm honestly not trying to trivialize this topic. Several friends have told me that taking a trek like this is a life-changing experience. I hope so. However, I'm not sure in what dimension that change will turn out to be. My hope is that this experience will help me focus on those non-walking areas of my life as well. I think I've done a fair job of being a good husband, good father, good employee, good citizen. Things seem to be turning out quite well in all those areas... but none of us are ever really satisfied with our effort and contributions: there is always more to give. Have I turned that knob up to 11 on all of those measures? Have you? How has your journey from here to there helped you turn it up to 11?

---

* From This is Spinal Tap, which is not really a favorite movie of mine, but which has defined the cultural touchpoint I need for this blog post. Unfortunately: "eleven, eleven, eleven".... it does not add up to 42.

Nigel Tufnel: The numbers all go to eleven. Look, right across the board, eleven, eleven, eleven and... Marty DiBergi: Oh, I see. And most amps go up to ten? Nigel: Exactly. Marty: Does that mean it's louder? Is it any louder? Nigel: Well, it's one louder, isn't it? It's not ten. You see, most blokes, you know, will be playing at ten. You're on ten here, all the way up, all the way up, all the way up, you're on ten on your guitar. Where can you go from there? Where? Marty: I don't know. Nigel: Nowhere. Exactly. What we do is, if we need that extra push over the cliff, you know what we do? Marty: Put it up to eleven. Nigel: Eleven. Exactly. One louder. Marty: Why don't you just make ten louder and make ten be the top number and make that a little louder? Nigel: [pause] These go to eleven. 

These boots are made for...

As I noted in my first post, I don't have the gear I'll need for this trek. So the first thing I did was start shopping around for boots, as that will be (I'm told) the most important piece of gear for this type of trek. Mel at Tusker Trail was helpful in giving me guidelines on what I'd need: definitely waterproof and medium weight to support carrying a 20 to 30 lb backpack. She said I would not need full leather boots; they would probably be too heavy.

I went to REI a few times, trying on different boots and talking to the folks there (who at least appeared pretty knowledgeable). I also looked at their online reviews, and online reviews on L.L. Bean and other sources.

The boots meet the beach.

I ended up getting the Gore-Tex Asolo Drifters from REI, and three pair of REI Merina wool trekking socks. I wore the Drifters to work for a few days to see how the fit was, and they seemed fine. With no opportunity to do some real trail hiking—I was going to be in Wilmington NC Saturday and Sunday so Val could attend  a UNCW soccer camp—I decided to do a real break-in test as opposite from Everest Base Camp as I could get: Wrightsville Beach, NC. After getting Val to camp on a cold Saturday morning, I was on the beach about 9:40. I started at Johnny Mercer pier, headed around the south tip of the island near the inlet, then backtracked north against the wind and a couple miles past the pier and back - 9 miles in total.

I had Wrightsville Beach pretty much to myself on a 25 degree breezy morning.

I really like these boots. The reviews all said they did not need a break-in, and I think it's true. I finished with no blisters, no sore spots, no discomfort at all!

When I said “opposite of Everest Base Camp”, I meant it. Here is my Runkeeper elevation map of my nine mile hike that day:

Most of my time was spent at 0 feet above sea level,
with occasional excursions into that treacherous 3-to-4 foot elevation.

My next training hikes will (I hope) be on trails such as Umstead Park near Raleigh. But I know I've got a good pair of boots to get my through it. I think I'm off to a good start, even if it is “all uphill” from here!

Tusker itinerary

Here is the itinerary of the Tusker Trail Everest Base Camp trek. Our trek will be Nov 2 - Nov 18, 2013.

DAY 1-2: KATHMANDU  4,390-ft / 1,388-m After arriving at the airport you meet your Tusker guide at the well-known Shangri-La Hotel, one of the nicest hotels in the Kathmandu, a city renowned for its fantastic shopping, cultural wonders and fascinating markets. Your two days in Kathmandu are spent wandering the narrow streets of Thamel, the bustling center of town, and on a tour of old Kathmandu City, Durbar Square and Swayambunath Stupa, known as the “monkey temple”. This is one of Kathmandu’s oldest and most important Buddhist shrines, which scholars believe dates back to the 1st century.
DAY 3: FLY TO LUKLA / HIKE TO PHAKDING 8,702-ft / 2,652-m - 5 hours trekking  After a short flight through the Himalayas we land at Lukla. Here we meet our full crew of cooks and porters, and, after a cup of Nepalese tea, start our hike to Phakding, on the chalky Dudh Kosi River. Just before we arrive at our lodge, we cross one of the famous hanging bridges across the river. After this first day “downhill”, many a trekker has been fooled into thinking that the famed Everest Base Camp trek is a simple walk in the park.
DAY 4-5: NAAMCHE BAZAAR  11,306-ft / 3,446-m - 7.5 hours Nestled in a protected corner of the Himalayas, Naamche is a centuries-old trading center between Tibet and Nepal. As we arrive on the outskirts we get our first view of Mt. Everest. Quaint with cobblestone streets and little shops, it is the last town on the trek before reaching base camp. Naamche teems with Sherpa life, while yaks roam the streets, the sounds of their bells making beautiful music. Naamche is abuzz with excitement as people from all over the globe pass through, on their way to and from base camp. We spend two nights acclimatizing here. Views of Everest, Nuptse, Ama Dablam and Lhotse are spectacular as we view them from the top of the hillside town.
DAY 6: KHUM JUNG  12,300-ft / 3,750-m - 3 hours  Commonly called the green valley, the short trek to Khum Jung is one of the most interesting hikes of the trek. You will revel in fantastic views of Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Kangtega, Thamserku and Ama Dablam. We visit the Khumjung Gompa (monastery) which displays a skull that supposedly comes from a yeti.
DAY 7: TENGBOCHE  12,687-ft / 3,867-m - 4 hours  Tengboche Monastery sits on a hill at the confluence of the Dudh Kosi and the Imja Khola rivers, with a clear view of Everest. It’s a tough hike up to the hilltop to one of the most important spiritual centers for the Sherpas, with 35 monks residing in the monastery. With a little trekker luck, we will witness the Lama (high priest) perform a riveting ceremony accompanied by monks chanting their magical hypnotic songs. We spend the night at a lodge across from the monastery.
DAY 8-9: PHERICHE  14,200-ft / 4,328-m - 6.5 hours Pheriche is situated at a critical location just a few days from Everest Base Camp and at and altitude where mountain sickness begins to bite. That’s why we spend 2 days here – acclimatizing. Our two-day stops are designed to allow our trekkers to adjust to the thinning air and have proven very successful in helping Tusker bodies adjust to the altitude.
DAY 10: LOBUCHE 16,126-ft / 4,915-m - 6 hours After a good rest and breakfast, we head out on the trail and up the broad valley of Pheriche. At Dhukla you notice the big hills of rough rock piles, which is really the terminal moraine of the Khumbu Glacier. Further along the track we spend a quiet moment at the site of the stone memorials for fallen Everest climbers, called “chortens” in Tibetan.
DAY 11-12: BASE CAMP / GORAK SHEP / KALA PATTAR  Gorak Shep: 16,942-ft / 4,915-m - 3.5 hours Base Camp: 17,585-ft / 5,360-m - 2.5 hours Gorak Shep: 16,942-ft / 4,915-m - 2 hours Kala Pattar: 18,513-ft/5,643-m - 4 hours
On this exciting day up to Everest Base Camp, we stop at Gorak Shep to freshen up and have lunch. We hike along the Khumbu Glacier moraine to our goal – Everest Base Camp. After celebrating our success, we trek back down to Gorak Shep for the night. Back in 1952 Gorak Shep was used as the base camp for the Swiss Expedition up Everest.
Early in the following morning we take a 4-hour climb up Kala Pattar, at 18,513-ft/5,643-m. This climb gives us extraordinary views of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse. We may only spend one night at Gorak Shep, depending on how strong the group is. In this case we will spend an extra night on our descent, to be determined by our guide.
DAY 13: DINGBOCHE  14,114-ft / 4,302-m - 5.5 hours  We start our descent through the Khumbu Valley. DAY 14: PANGBOCHE  13,078-ft / 3,986-m - 3 hours  We spend the night to break up the long downhill trek to Namche.
DAY 15: NAAMCHE BAZAAR 11,306-ft / 3,446-m - 6.5 hours  It’s a full day hike, but you’ll appreciate the oxygen. You browse the maze of streets, picking your way through the local shops for Nepali handicrafts. DAY 16: LUKLA  9,384-ft / 2,860-m - 8 hours Our last day hike finds us back at Lukla for the night. DAY 17: KATHMANDU 4,390-ft / 1,388-m Check in to the Shangri-La hotel. The rest of the day is free to relax or wander around town. Group dinner at our favorite restaurant. DAY 18: FLY HOME Transfer to Kathmandu airport.